More in Stash Attack Mode
Remember those times when having the ankle end of your trousers the wrong width was enough to mark you out as a little odd or seriously uncool? Happily for the eclectic amongst us, fashion is unfazed by the political waves of rigidity, close mindedness and mean spirited self interest. No fashion dictats now, find your own happy. Trouser widths are all over the place.
To put it another way, I found three trouser patterns, two recent, one old, and used some of my ludicrously huge pile of fabrics to make them up. They all, I think, look ok. From fairly narrow to jolly wide, they were:-
The chino stye from an issue of Couture Actuelle.
Couture Actuelle Pattern
This is just a moderately narrow, classic casual style with turn ups and slanting pockets at the hip (didn’t make the back welt pockets, who ever uses them?). It has a waistband with belt loops I also didn’t bother with, as a belt round my waist on trousers is as rare as a tucked in top. I made them in a white cotton drill which, if memory serves me right, came from Fabricland uk. They’re comfortable, unremarkable, light, summery, a bit casual. Zip went in in the Shoben and Ward way I’ve banged on about many times . Pattern comes like other magazine patterns without seam allowances.
Chino in White Drill
These are wide but straight ultra casual, very seasonal, elastic waisted pants. The pattern has some side pockets. I had a length of black embroidered cotton to use for these, but not enough to get fronts and backs out on separate widths. By pattern measurements I should use the medium, and to fit this on a single width I removed the side seam, making vertical welt pockets instead of the ones designed by Butterick. As it turned out I need not have bothered, ease acreage is generous and I could have used a smaller size. They’re light, comfy, the kind of pants you could sleep in. The fabric I believe came from Myrtille.
Black Embroidered Cotton
Very Easy Vogue 9198
This pattern was intact, despite its tatty envelope. I haven’t found it online yet, but it has a distinctly 80s look to judge by the padded shoulders those gals are sporting. Remember suit shoulders bulked out sideways with huge lumps of foam? Looking past the bullish shoulder pads , I thought the flowing pleated pants in the artwork might look ok.
Pleat front Trousers
A length of some kind of lightweight poly bought on a London market at £1 a yard beckoned. The pattern has front pleats and a back zip. The side seam falls straight, the fullness is increased by those generous pleats, which aren’t the little tucks you get at the waistline of Oxford Bags, but proper full pleats from hip to waist, made by slashing the block from waist to hem and adding width. It looks like a skirt when you stand still. The pattern harks from the days of single sizes and pre-dates vanity sizing. My size fit snugly on the hips and the waist needs a couple of low carb weeks. Not only does the pattern have seam allowances, but they’re printed on it. You really can’t mess up with these old patterns. Or so I thought.
In the spirit of full disclosure, I didn’t make these all that carefully. What if they looked comically outdated? No point working up a sweat. The result of this slapdashery was the invisible zip coming adrift because I hadn’t sewn across the snipped end well enough. I unzipped it first wearing and puller went shooting off the end and disappeared. I was just going to go with the on-the-floor shot, but with gritted teeth I’ve ripped out the old zip and stitched a new one in, zigzagging across the end a zillion times. The shot below reflects the hacked off mood nicely, my lens wasn’t square with the ground, I’m falling gently sideways and it’s too darn hot to do anything about it. I’m wearing them, they’re ok. I mean for £2.50 who’s nitpicking?