Shortening, or lengthening , a pattern which doesn’t come with ‘shorten here’ lines.
First, obviously, you have to decide where you and the measurements the pattern maker used part company.
This is easy when they helpfully provide a full measurement chart. DP Studio has a chart which gives you a real chance to compare your individual shape with the standard their pattern maker is using. Not many compnies seem to do this. A crucial bit of information is often missing, Centre Back Nape to Waist.
The Burda magazine I used for my cocoon coat only indicates height, a bit taller than me. I’m doing a rerun of this pattern, making a few changes. I’ve dropped down a size, and want to shorten the bodice a little. I’m happy with the armhole depth, so all the changes are going to be made below that line.
I’ve drawn parallel lines 1 cm apart at right angles to the grain lines at the same level on each piece where it stitches together to form the top part of the garment. (The pattern seams were ‘walked’ against each other to get the position right on each subsequent piece.)
It’s not a big alteration, but added to the height reduction by size I think it’ll be ok.
The balance mark top right is on the lower part of the armhole. I’m retaining the fit of the sleeves.
The plan for this version of the Cocoon Coat is to make it reversible, in two colours of silk duppion, a burnt orange and black. Things are going rather slowly, sewing time being limited by dog nursing. Our Springer leapt over a wall onto some glass, which cut his leg badly, severing a ligament and artery. He doesn’t think he needs to rest anymore, but the vet says give it a month – a recipe for chaos. They are not a breed that understands keeping still.