My 300 metres of fabric includes some lengths purchased by daughters, and then abandoned. The heavy natural cotton with a detail of woven slubs and tufts I pulled out for August Burda 117 is one of those.
I’ve wanted to make a cocoon coat for a while. The fabric looked like a good candidate to try out the pattern and get a summer top layer with a bit of an ethnic vibe.
The woven slub/tuft effect can be seen on the left of the photo. The tufts tied to form bows through the top stitching on the front were added. (Threads of the heavy slub pulled out, top stitching run over them, knotted and trimmed)
Followers of this erratic blog will know that I frequently draft my own patterns, avoiding the dreaded fit problems. I ran into them this time.
The short version of this tale is that it’s a great pattern in so many ways, but has ease beyond your ken. The fit on the model suggests a slightly relaxed fit, but no hint of tent. Someone on The Sewing Place forum suggested that Burda may have performed their special magic of a bulldog clip in the garment back at the photo shoot. They could be right.
I cut a 40. Per chart it’s 6 cms smaller than my bust size, but after a brief dither I eschewed the FBA. Luckily, as it turned out.
Pattern measurements taken too late show there’s almost 10 inches of ease at this level. That’s mighty for a summer coat, open front, 3/4 sleeves, worn over a summer dress strolling along the shore at dusk.
Enough griping. The pattern is well thought out, they’ve prioritised easy assembly.No nasty surprises lurk in seams not matching or balance marks forgotten. The Burda way with flap pockets gets a re-run.
They’re set in a seam. You don’t have that nail biting moment of slicing into your perfect front piece whilst crossing fingers that you got left and right matched and the stitching channel absolutely spot on.
If you get the size right it’s a winner, the shape is good. I especially like what they’ve done with the sleeves.
They’re cut in two pieces, the fit is similar to a dolman sleeve so that the armhole is easy, the shoulder seam and top seam stitched in one pass, the cuff edge faced back.
The back is shaped in at the hem with pleats.
Save stress, do a toile!