Cocoon Coat

My 300 metres of fabric includes some lengths purchased by daughters, and then abandoned. The heavy natural cotton with a detail of woven slubs and tufts I pulled out for August Burda 117 is one of those.

Burda 08/2018/117

I’ve wanted to make a cocoon coat for a while. The fabric looked like a good candidate to try out the pattern and get a summer top layer with a bit of an ethnic vibe.

Tufty Bows

The woven slub/tuft effect can be seen on the left of the photo. The tufts tied to form bows through the top stitching on the front were added. (Threads of the heavy slub pulled out, top stitching run over them, knotted and trimmed)

Followers of this erratic blog will know that I frequently draft my own patterns, avoiding the dreaded fit problems. I  ran into them this time.

The short version of this tale is that it’s a great pattern in so many ways, but has ease beyond your ken. The fit on the model suggests a slightly relaxed fit, but no hint of tent. Someone on The Sewing Place forum suggested that Burda may have performed their special magic of  a bulldog clip in the garment back at the photo shoot. They could be right.

I cut a 40. Per chart it’s 6 cms smaller than my bust size, but after a brief dither I eschewed the FBA. Luckily, as it turned out.

Pattern measurements taken too late show there’s almost 10 inches of ease at this level. That’s mighty for a summer coat, open front, 3/4 sleeves, worn over a summer dress strolling along the shore at dusk.

Measure Pattern!

Enough griping. The pattern is well thought out, they’ve prioritised easy assembly.No nasty surprises lurk in seams not matching or balance marks forgotten. The Burda way with flap pockets gets a re-run.

Pocket in Seam

They’re set in a seam. You don’t have that nail biting moment of slicing into your perfect front piece whilst crossing fingers  that you got left and right matched and the stitching channel absolutely spot on.

Cotton Cocoon Coat

If you get the size right it’s a winner, the shape is good. I especially like what they’ve done with the sleeves.

Great Sleeves!

They’re cut in two pieces, the fit is similar to a dolman sleeve so that the armhole is easy, the shoulder seam and top seam stitched in one pass, the cuff edge faced back.

Sleeve Seam

The back is shaped in at the hem with pleats.

Back Pleats


Save stress, do a toile!






About jay

I design and draft patterns
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8 Responses to Cocoon Coat

  1. prttynpnk says:

    I love Burda for the unique details, but picture honestly is not one of them!
    I’m glad you did this review because I like the shape of yours better than theirs!

    Liked by 1 person

  2. I love that idea for the pockets. So easy and it adds even more style! Cute sleeves too with the design at the hem. I always measure the pattern but I confess sometimes it is after I realize I have cut my piece too big! Oops 😬

    Liked by 1 person

  3. What a lovely shape! It’s got my pet gripe about Burda coat patterns, the edge to edge closure, but for a summer coat that really doesn’t matter.

    Liked by 1 person

    • jay says:

      It would be possible to add an overlap in this pattern, but the sleeves are 3/4 length, so unless it’s always going to be accessorised with long gloves it’s not an obvious choice for a winter coat.

      Liked by 2 people

  4. erniek3 says:

    I do like the shape of this. Mostly I love the fabric. And the pockets; I should put pockets like that in my cocoon coat pattern (which is accumulating all the design features of everyone else’s cocoon coats). This season my measuring is too late and my pieces are cut too small.


  5. mrsmole says:

    This pattern has just so many cool features doesn’t it? Those sleeves…yummy and pockets that don’t bag out and cause problems and that fabric is so unusual that it begs someone to go and rub those little clumps of yarn…in the end it screams “I came from a high-end boutique!”


  6. Kim says:

    It’s a wonderful coat, and I love your fabric – but it is so annoying when you know darn well that the garments have been ‘doctored’ to look as they do in a photograph which is supposed to help you decide if the garment is for you. Keep going – it’s going to be a keeper.


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