I’ve arrived at a halfway house to full on Stash-Org Nerdery. There are now lists. The lists have symbols next to the items to designate colour group and potential usefulness for quick quick or slow projects.
It took time, but balance that against the time wasted rooting through heaps of fabric in search of something surely bought a few years ago, only to find that the yardage was way too short, or the hand of the fabric was totally wrong.
DO you spend hours looking for stuff , or have you got it nailed?
Anyway, fully smugged up about my new found organisation skills I yanked out a piece left over from a previous project, knowing right off that a bit of pattern fandangling would be needed to get trousers out . How good that felt.
I only needed contrast fabric for pockets, waistband facing, turn up facing. The lists pointed me to the one and only choice. Yeah!
Ta Da! Keks in a zany cotton elastane print with black drill as contrast. Only a metre down in stash terms, but I’ll take that.
You will notice I go for a relaxed fit. I could have shaved off another inch, but nooooo. The grip quality of elastane gets a pass in the gym or dance studio, but should it cross into streetwear?
Have you ever calculated how long a project has taken? Me neither. In the interests of getting a handle on stash-hours – Simple Trousers Time and Motion Study – feel free to skip.
- Stitch, turn, press and finish zip guard 7 minutes
- Mark, stitchand press back darts 5 minutes
- Stitch zip to RS of right front,face down, lining up zip tape to centre line 3 minutes
- Press a line 5 mm away from CF line on left front, 3 minutes
- Stitch this to the other side of the zip 3 minutes
- Trim left side to 1 cm from zip edge, finish edge, attach zip guard 7 minutes
- Press fold along CF line on right front, stitch part of crotch seam keeping zip guard free 5 minutes
- Bring CFs togehter, keep zipguard free, topstitch fly 7 minutes
- Face back pocket opening with pocket piece 5 minutes
- With WS together stitch side piece to pocket piece along curved edge taking 7mm seam allowance, snip into curves, trim to 3mm, turn, press,
and stitch round enclosing turnings in a french seam, 12 minutes
- Stitch across the waistline and side to hold pockets 3 minutes
- Finish edges of all main pieces 10 minutes
- Stitch side seams and press to the back 6 minutes
- Top stitch seam to heart’s content, or not 10 minutes (includes time for checking the stitch/thread ccombo looks ok)
- Stitch inseams, double stitch crotch seam, stitch down pockets for 25mm 10 minutes
- Stitch CB seam on waistband and waistband facing, interface, stitch top edge RS together and snip curves 15 minutes
- Stitch band to garment, grade turnings 10 Minutes
- Stitch waistband ends and turn, finish raw edge of band, stitch in the ditch to hold band facing in place, top stitch. 10 minutes
- Turn ups, join fronts and backs along side seams 3 minutes
- join inner and outer turn up pieces along top edge, turn and press, top stitch side seam to match garment side seam 7 minutes
- Finish lower edge, stitch turn ups to trouser legs, thread mark fold line 10 minutes
- Turn up hem and stitch, press turn ups and catch stitch between the turn up facing and garment at the side and inner seams 7 minutes
- Attach fastening to close waistband. 10 minutes
Comes out under 3 hours. That’s not too different from my best guess, two and a half hours for trousers not rushing, and confirms my feelings about sewing waistbands. Anyone else find these a pain? Just when everything is telling you you’ve almost finished, there’s a bunch of processes needing accurate stitching. Ugh!