Once More into the Stash Dear Friends

I’ve arrived at a halfway house to full on Stash-Org Nerdery. There are now lists. The lists have symbols next to the items to designate colour group and potential usefulness for quick quick or slow projects.

It took time, but balance that against the time wasted rooting through heaps of fabric in search of something  surely bought a few years ago, only to find that the yardage was way too short, or the hand of the fabric was totally wrong.

DO you spend hours looking for stuff , or have you got it nailed?

Anyway, fully smugged up about my new found organisation skills I yanked out a piece left over from a previous project, knowing right off that a bit of pattern fandangling would be needed to get trousers out . How good that felt.

I only needed contrast fabric for pockets, waistband facing, turn up facing. The lists pointed me to the one and only choice. Yeah!

Ta Da! Keks in a zany cotton elastane print with black drill as contrast. Only a metre down in stash terms, but I’ll take that.

You will notice I go for a relaxed fit. I could have shaved off another inch, but nooooo. The grip quality of elastane gets a pass in the gym or dance studio, but should it cross into streetwear?

Cotton Trousers

Have you ever calculated how long a project has taken? Me neither. In the interests of getting a handle on stash-hours – Simple Trousers Time and Motion Study  – feel free to skip.

  1. Stitch, turn, press and finish zip guard 7 minutes

    Zip Guard

  2. Mark, stitchand press back darts 5 minutes
  3. Stitch zip to RS of right front,face down, lining up zip tape to centre line 3 minutes

    RS ZIP

  4. Press a line 5 mm away from CF line on left front, 3 minutes

    Left Front Prepared

  5. Stitch this to the other side of the zip 3 minutes

    2nd Side of Zip Stitched

  6. Trim left side to 1 cm from zip edge, finish edge, attach zip guard 7 minutes

    Zip Guard

  7. Press fold along CF line on right front, stitch part of crotch seam  keeping zip guard free 5 minutes

    Crotch Seam

  8. Bring CFs togehter, keep zipguard free, topstitch fly 7 minutes

    Top Stitch Fly

  9. Face back pocket opening with pocket piece 5 minutes

    Face with Pocket Piece

  10. With WS together stitch side piece to pocket piece along curved edge taking 7mm seam allowance, snip into curves, trim to 3mm, turn, press,

    Stitch Pocket

    and stitch round enclosing turnings in a french seam, 12 minutes

    Snip Curves

    French Seam Pockets

  11. Stitch across the waistline and side to hold pockets 3 minutes

    Secure Pockets

  12. Finish edges of all main pieces 10 minutes
  13. Stitch side seams and press to the back 6 minutes
  14. Top stitch seam to heart’s content, or not 10 minutes (includes time for checking the stitch/thread ccombo looks ok)

    Top Stitch Side Seams

  15. Stitch inseams, double stitch crotch seam, stitch down pockets for 25mm 10 minutes

    Top Stitch Pocket Tops

  16. Stitch CB seam on waistband and waistband facing, interface, stitch top edge RS together and snip curves 15 minutes
  17. Stitch band to garment, grade turnings 10 Minutes
  18. Stitch waistband ends and turn, finish raw edge of band, stitch in the ditch to hold band facing in place, top stitch. 10 minutes

    Stitch in Ditch

  19. Turn ups, join fronts and backs along side seams 3 minutes
  20. join inner and outer turn up pieces along top edge, turn and press, top stitch side seam to match garment side seam 7 minutes
  21. Finish lower edge, stitch turn ups to trouser legs, thread mark fold line 10 minutes

    Attach Turn Ups

  22. Turn up hem and stitch, press turn ups and catch stitch between the turn up facing and garment at the side and inner seams 7 minutes
  23. Attach fastening to close waistband. 10 minutes

Comes out under 3 hours. That’s not too different from my best guess, two and a half hours for trousers not rushing, and confirms my feelings about sewing waistbands. Anyone else find these a pain? Just when everything is telling you you’ve almost finished, there’s a bunch of processes needing accurate stitching. Ugh!

 

 

 

 

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
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10 Responses to Once More into the Stash Dear Friends

  1. felicia says:

    You sew the zip in place before joining the fronts at the crotch? Seems so much easier than sewing the crotch seam first, but does it work?? Well, I’ll have to try it. You didn’t include time for laying out the fabric, positioning the pattern pieces and cutting. That always seems to take way too long.

    Like

    • erniek3 says:

      I like this order of construction because the hardest stuff is at the front end of business, and the tasks get more “oooh look pretty topstitching” towards the end. My exact level of brain power.
      Loving the zany. Always love the zany.

      Like

  2. jay says:

    This way of putting in a zip is my favourite. You need a ‘grown on’ fly piece on the pattern. It works brilliantly. I agree cutting out time can be lengthy, as can toiles, alterations, fitting etc.

    Like

  3. I enjoyed reading this, its a bit nerdy of me, but it’s exactly why I read blogs. I can’t remember when I last did a fly front I switched to side openings and I totally eschew waistbands by doing a faced finish, lazy I know but quick. I did an inventory of fabric, honestly, it was one of the best things I did it saved loads of time and it does keep me mindful of what I have. Unlike you though I didn’t find my thread snippers, measuring tool, little scissors and more stuff than I can list, I think I must be a bit gung ho scooping stuff into the bin, unless I have family of borrowers nicking stuff.

    Liked by 1 person

    • jay says:

      I’m pretty evil in defending boundaries round scissors, so when they go missing it’s either me or the caprices of the bad sewing fairy.

      Like

  4. I always laugh at those patterns that say 1 hour pants/trousers or 2 hour shirt…. sure. These look quite comfortable. I’d go for that!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. That’s very interesting (and you sew faster than I do!) Waistbands are definitely a pain in the neck; I also find hems other than a very simple top stitched hem are surprisingly slow to do. I like to do my trouser pockets first and then make the fly front. I think the zip is too fiddly a place to start for me.

    Like

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