I’m doing a re-run of the style I made in violet rayon, this time for me.
There’s at least a couple of ways of doing this draft. I’ve photographed the main stages in one .
First the disclaimer. It’s a quick and dirty piece of pattern making. If you’re wondering why the paper is bumpy, it comes off a roll of the stuff sold to cover trestle tables for a street party, large family gathering or Moules Frites in the town square. Tends to rip, but ok for patterns that are getting one use.
Here’s the back and front block with a squared armhole drawn and the old one sliced off. The new shoulder point is 5cms in from the original and the new underarm point is 7.5 below the original. The bottom armhole line is 10cms. These measurements aren’t set in stone, and the shape can be varied of course.
Next the sleeve. To compensate for the missing part of the bodice, and to make some gathers over the sleeve head and armhole seam, the sleeve is enlarged.
My somewhat battered sleeve block has the Top Line (the one that goes between the two underarm points) extended 10cms each side, and the Centre Line extended 5cms .
The bodice has been placed on those new underarm points and a T-junction going through the new top point to start the sleeve head draft. It’s going to have to fit into that square armhole.
A new provisional underarm seam is shooting off the bodice underarm points, and blending in roughly at the Elbow Line. I’m having the sleeves 3/4 length, so this is a good moment to lop off the excess. Now the Blue Peter stuff. ( the scissors and glue opportunity, if you weren’t British child and have no idea what I’m waffling about)
The vertical slash lines are to put some gathers into the sleeve. The odd stuff at the top is to give the sleeve a bit of extra ease in the underarm area, like a gusset in a tighter kimono cut. About 7.5 cms length has been added there, by swinging out that squarish section that fits into the bodice.
The new sleevehead is raised 2.5cms, and the new sleeve shape drawn, not forgetting to shape the bottom edge.
The cuff edge of a sleeve dips in line with where the elbow will bend and curves up on the other side.
That’s the basic sleeve/armhole adaptation I’m using. There’s still a fair bit to do on the pattern – decide on the cuff arrangement, move the bust dart to somewhere more stylish, reshape the bodice side seams and replan the waist shaping, decide on the neckline, collar, buttonstand and pick a fabric.