Still working on the mini toile, I altered the half scale pattern. First the lines drawn, taking the top line across to the side seam.
Then a bit wider flare at the side seam, taking it higher on the leg.
The other side falls mid panel and needs a piece adding to match the flares on the other side.
An increased amount of flare put in to the back piece.
The top panel is made with the darts closed and the side seam overlapped. This leaves the waistline a bit wider and high hip a bit narrower than the block. The waistline can be drawn in to the waistband, I’m figuring the fabric will stretch enough to deal with the relative tightness at high hip, without adding in anything at the side. This piece has to be redrawn with the curves smoothed out.
Sewn up the back still looks as though there hasn’t been enough flare added in to create a definite effect at the 3/4 position.
I cut and roughly tacked in a wedge.
This looks better – on to a full scale trial.
Surprisingly, the pattern drafted from a 12 Aldrich block (round about 36″ hip) fits on a metre, even when you have to respect the nap.
I know what you’re thinking. “What kind of idiot pattern tests on stretch velvet”. The same kind of idiot that buys up several colours when it’s cheap on a market stall, including the last metre of a nice grey, with no clear idea what to do with it.