Skirt Draft 2

Still working on the mini toile, I altered the half scale pattern. First the lines drawn, taking the top line across to the side seam.

Skirt Draft

Then a bit wider flare at the side seam, taking it higher on the leg.

Adding Flare

The other side falls mid panel and needs a piece adding to match the flares on the other side.

Equivalent Flare

An increased amount of flare put in to the back piece.

Increase Flare in Back

The top panel is made with the darts closed and the side seam overlapped. This leaves the waistline a bit wider and high hip a bit narrower than the block. The waistline can be drawn in to the waistband, I’m figuring the fabric will stretch enough to deal with the relative tightness at high hip, without adding in anything at the side. This piece has to be redrawn with the curves smoothed out.

Darts Closed

Sewn up the back still looks as though there hasn’t been enough flare added in to create a definite effect at the 3/4 position.

Back Half Scale

I cut and roughly tacked in a wedge.

 

Wedge Added

This looks better – on to a full scale trial.

Surprisingly, the pattern drafted from a 12 Aldrich block (round about 36″ hip) fits on a metre, even when you have to respect the nap.

Layout

I know what you’re thinking. “What kind of idiot pattern tests on stretch velvet”. The same kind of idiot that buys up several colours when it’s cheap on a market stall, including the last metre of a nice grey, with no clear idea what to do with it.

 

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
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8 Responses to Skirt Draft 2

  1. Lesley says:

    I seem to have a similar task ahead of me this weekend!

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  2. Those are quite the pattern pieces! I have tried out a pattern on the ugliest fabrics. If it helps then who cares!

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  3. mrsmole says:

    Next time you make a sample, could you find some cheap striped or gingham fabric so we could see straight of grain lines? I am so intrigued by this!!!

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  4. jay says:

    I kept the main skirt pieces with the grain running vertically mrsmole. The yoke piece was set so that the CB grain was vertical, this throws the CF off grain. I decided that it would be ok, as it’s relatively small, I’m using a stretch fabric anyway, and the CB carries the most stress, sitting etc. Similarly, in the piece which wraps around from the back to the front at hem level, I kept the grain straight in the CB which throws the main flare into the bias and has the front hem of this piece on the vertical, not horizontal grain. I’ve made it up now, and quite like that in velvet this gives a shading to that piece as it moves round frm the back. I’m aiming to get photos, probably rough and ready ones, tomorrow.

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  5. It’s really interesting to see this coming together, thanks for sharing.

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  6. maryfunt says:

    I love what you’re doing with this draft. The method of slashing and adding allows you to control exactly where and how much flare is added. I had to laugh at you’re reference to “idiots who test in stretch velvet.” Sometimes we use what’s at hand. I sympathize with Mrs. Mole for wanting a fabric with the lines and grain clearer. Hopefully you will get all your bargain velvet used up before the final draft!

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