Wearable Toile ?

I’m making these jeans semi-properly, on the chance that they will fit without too much alteration. There’ll be a bit of skimping and short-cuts in case they’re waaaay off and end up as dusters.

The zip went in à la Shoben and Ward. It’s inserted with the pieces flat, and gets done first. Thanks to a comment on Catherine Daze’s blog I learn that there’s yet another flat insertion method, featured in Threads .

I like to have a zip guard though. Maybe it would be easy enough to add one, but I’m not sure about the extra bulk of interfacings on each side of the fly facings. In a heavy denim would you want this?

And, thanks to a forum member at The Sewing Place, I’ve just watched a video with another flat zip insertion method . This one, I’ll try one day, also her way with front pockets, not the same as mine below.

Front pockets after the zip.

Pocket Facing Stitched

Snipped and Understitched

I cut the pocket/corner front as one, in the mauve fabric. In heavy denim it’s usual to make the pocket in a lighter cotton, but this saves a stage.

Pocket Self Neatened

Stitching the pocket WS together with the pocket facing, then clipping, turning and stitching again as a french seam gives a nice strong, neat edge to the pocket.

Back Pockets next

Back Pockets

The yoke provides the shaping that would otherwise be in a waist dart.

Plain Seam at Side

Time to try them on

Toile Fit

Not as bad as expected, but the 1cm at the waist was on the optimistic side. Time to revise the pattern.



About jay

I design and draft patterns
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9 Responses to Wearable Toile ?

  1. jay says:

    On the edge of wearable Linda, ok with a long top!


  2. I always put zips in flat too, but I do the pockets before the zip for no very good reason. I’ll have to check out Shoben’s book!


  3. Annie says:

    They look good, a great fit, only you can tell whether they’ll be comfortable to wear, just a bit of tweaking and your next pair will be perfect. Onwards and upwards.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. seweverythingblog says:

    They look like a perfectly wearable “muslin”. Maybe take in the sides at the hip just a wee bit?? For a snugger fit and straighter line?
    Can’t wait to see more

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Fabrickated says:

    If anyone can make perfect jeans Jay, it is you (and Overflowing stash Pia!). I will investigate all those fly zip methods as getting them right makes the jeans look good. I had such a pain with my zip on my jeans – losing the tab twice and have to buy and insert a third zip!

    Liked by 1 person

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