I’m making these jeans semi-properly, on the chance that they will fit without too much alteration. There’ll be a bit of skimping and short-cuts in case they’re waaaay off and end up as dusters.
The zip went in à la Shoben and Ward. It’s inserted with the pieces flat, and gets done first. Thanks to a comment on Catherine Daze’s blog I learn that there’s yet another flat insertion method, featured in Threads .
I like to have a zip guard though. Maybe it would be easy enough to add one, but I’m not sure about the extra bulk of interfacings on each side of the fly facings. In a heavy denim would you want this?
And, thanks to a forum member at The Sewing Place, I’ve just watched a video with another flat zip insertion method . This one, I’ll try one day, also her way with front pockets, not the same as mine below.
Front pockets after the zip.
I cut the pocket/corner front as one, in the mauve fabric. In heavy denim it’s usual to make the pocket in a lighter cotton, but this saves a stage.
Stitching the pocket WS together with the pocket facing, then clipping, turning and stitching again as a french seam gives a nice strong, neat edge to the pocket.
Back Pockets next
The yoke provides the shaping that would otherwise be in a waist dart.
Time to try them on
Not as bad as expected, but the 1cm at the waist was on the optimistic side. Time to revise the pattern.