Last post I touched on a possible approach to drafting a block in a size larger than the given size chart in Aldrich.
Size 12 is used as an example in the instructions, here’s the 12 with the 30.
The 12 has the bust dart moved to the underarm position. There is an increase in height built in to the size increases, one element that might need changing for an individual. Changes in height are relatively easy to make, usually distributed between the length from the nape to the underarm line, and the underarm to the waist.
Aldrich size charts have an addendum for ‘short’ and ‘tall’, giving a plus or minus 2cms for nape to waist, a plus or minus 0.8 cms for scye depth. Individuals might choose a different arrangement to keep the armhole at a comfortable depth.
See how the larger sizes also have more length in the front bodice above the bust? This is a frequently needed fix. Here’s a toile being sorted by the fantastic mrsmole. Scroll down for where more fabric goes in above the bust. Only the toile stage of a personal block can guarantee to sort all fit issues, ( putting fabric in where it’s needed and taking it out where it isn’t), but taking measurements on the body and comparing them to the draft gets you some of the way.
Aldrich is a good system, but the instructions are on the terse side and the explanations minimal. A problem for many working on their own is measurement taking. The armhole depth, back width and back nape to waist are critical, but hard to get right on your own. It can help to work a ‘standard’ block first.
Lets look at what a size chart above 30 might look like.
difference per size
bust + 5cms 132 / 137/ 142/ 147/ 152/ 157
waist + 5cms 112/ 117/ 122/ 127/ 132/ 137
Hips+ 5 cms 137/ 142/ 147/ 152/ 157/ 162
Back Width + 1.2 45/ 46.2/ 47.4/ 48.6/ 49.8/ 51
Chest + 1.5 45.5/ 47/ 48.5/ 50/ 51.5/ 53
Shoulder + 0.3 14.9/ 15.2/ 15.5/ 15.8/ 16.1/ 16.4
Neck + 1.2 47.6/ 48.8/ 50/ 51.2/ 52.4/ 53.6
Dart + 0.6 12.4/ 13/ 13.6/ 14.2/ 14.8/ 15.4
Nape to Waist + 0.2 43.6 / 43.8/ 44/ 44.2/ 44.4/ 44.6
Front shoulder to Waist +0.5 46/ 46.5/ 47/ 47.5/ 48/ 48.5
Armhole Depth + 0.7 26.3/ 27/ 27.7/ 28.4/ 29.1/ 29.8
Waist to Hip +0.2 22.9/ 23.1/ 23.3/ 23.5/ 23.7/ 23.9/
It’s extrapolated from Aldrich , using the size difference between 28 and 30 to create more sizes. There’s inbuilt fudge in this approach, because maybe the average increase in, say shoulder length, isn’t the same for 30-40 as for 28-30. As we know average and personal measurements are rarely the same. When there is a big difference between a personal measurement and the standard, the drafting system could give a result that still doesn’t work well. The back shoulder is drafted onto a line one fifth of armhole depth measurement minus 0.7. If you use a much shorter shoulder length this results in a sharper slope, which might not be useful.
You can, of course, input the bespoke measurements right away and draft from those. If you can take those measurements accurately in the right place and level and understand how they relate to the draft this could be your choice. I like to look at a ‘standard’ block in an appropriate size first,which helps to throw light on wherethere are individual differences .
My diagram is in half scale, measurements from my extended chart bust 157 cms, which is around 62 inches. Aldrich drafts the bodice to the hip line, which is pretty usual for drafting systems. It relies on having the ‘standard’ difference between waist and hip. For many figures, it’s actually easier to work the bodice to the waist only.
The bust point in the Aldrich drafts is placed 2.5 cms or about an inch below the armhole depth line. Often this needs to be moved, similarly the balance between the front and back block may need changing, for different cup sizes. Sometimes, just taking a standard block in a bust size a little smaller than the personal measurement and doing an FBA results in the right fit. Next post, how this would look on the 40 Bodice.