Linen Trousers

The trousers (a bit crumpled after an afternoon sitting in the doctor’s surgery).

Linen Trousers

Linen Trousers

As well as the pocket detail and no side seam posted about last week, these have a curved waistband. This one is drafted with a centre back seam. The darts which shape the top of the trouser block and the shaping of the side seam are transferred into the band, making the curve. It also has the seam on the right side of the band moved to the inside band. The outer band and the inside aren’t duplicate patterns, a couple of inches of the inner band are added to the front, there’s a fold, not a seam on the edge. This gives a neater finish where the waist fastenings are set.

Waistband

Waistband

The fabric was easy to sew of course, as linen is. I pre-washed the piece to allow for the inevitable shrinkage, and finished the insides with zigag. The inside waistband is turned under and slip stitched, and the hem is slip stitched too on this pair. The pattern is drafted with a grown on fly extension and the zip set in ร  la Shoben and Ward. A blow by blow account of that method was in my post Jeaniac, May 2012.

 

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
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10 Responses to Linen Trousers

  1. Aunt Mayme says:

    Beautiful pair! I want to make some out of washed silk.

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  2. heather says:

    wow! really lovely! you are quite talented! thanks for sharing! ๐Ÿ™‚

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  3. Those look great, thanks for sharing your pattern drafting tips too. Love your whole outfit, those colours are just gorgeous!

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  4. fabrickated says:

    I agree with Karen the sewing miserabilist. You always look very fine in trousers, but this pair, with this shirt looks great.

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  5. Fab, interesting waistband, you look summery and cool. I’ve made four linen pairs and don’t care about the wrinkles.

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  6. Love this, it’s right up my sartorial street. I think that the colours really suit you and your roses look fab too.

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  7. Geo P says:

    Great tip about the grown outer band, that corner always tries to pop out ignoring the understitching and pressing. I’ll give it a go next time I have a waist band, I assume you sew the (off) center front on the inner and outer bands first and then the top seam? The zip method is new to me as well, it’s the first one I see with the zip in first before the crotch seam.
    Love how the pink roses balance your outfit against all that green ๐Ÿ™‚

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    • jay says:

      I do sew the off centre seam between the top and under bands before sewing the top seam. A big plus if you finish with a button and buttonhole is that this way avoids the lump at the edge which can throw your machine foot out of kilter when you put your buttonhole in. The zip method is the one I now use all the time on trousers. Because it goes in first, you need to be sure your fit is right. It’s jolly annoying to have to unpick a zipper if you need to take in or let out the seam. Apart from that it’s quick and foolproof, lets you have the pieces flat for the tricky top stitching, and allows you to get one of the slower processes out of the way while the project is still fresh.

      Liked by 1 person

  8. I love the pink/orange mix. Fabulous trousers that will be perfect for summer.

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