I made a couple of pairs of linen trousers in 2012 and am fishing out my pattern for a re-run. It’s a fairly standard shape, wide legs but not elephantine, side pockets, shaped waistband set slightly lower than natural waistline.
The second pair in linen I made without a side seam, giving a casual look. This post is about how the pocket works without the side seam. I’m working in my new linen, before it festers in stash and guilt trips me about broken resolutions and the like.
The front (left) has a grown on fly, the side piece (top) extends across the front.
I pinned the pieces overlapping the seam allowances on the side seam, keeping the grain lines as parallel as possible.
The pocket pieces , left one faces back the front, right one includes the side and a piece supporting the front, remain unchanged.
The point where the pocket opening ends is marked.
Then the facing/pocket is stitched ending exactly at the point marked.
The side front piece is stitched to the back, ending the stitching exactly at the previous stitching. It helps to pin the seam allowance of the pocket piece out of the way.
This is how it looks from the wrong side. Then it’s snipped to the point of the Vee, in order to turn the pieces through.
The pocket piece is pressed towards the front and a line of understitching put in to hold the turnings in place and make a crisper turn.
The side front piece is pressed over the pocket, pressing the seam allowances to the back.
To stitch round the pocket, a guide is handy.
This is how it looks from the right side when finished.
The last pair made like this have lasted through wearing and washing without the vulnerable point of the Vee giving way, but it could be supported with some decorative stitching, a button or top stitching. This fabric is more slubby than the stuff I used for the first two pairs, it may fray at the point in wear and get a fix along those lines.
I like this style of pockets in trousers, and like linen trousers without a side seam. It occurs to me that a rtw garment without a seam could have pockets inserted like this, perhaps using a decorative contrast fabric.