No Seam Trouser Pockets

I made a couple of pairs of linen trousers in 2012 and am fishing out my pattern for a re-run. It’s a fairly standard shape, wide legs but not elephantine, side pockets, shaped waistband set slightly lower than natural waistline.

The second pair in linen I made without a side seam, giving a casual look. This post is about how the pocket works without the side seam. I’m working in my new linen, before it festers in stash and guilt trips me about broken resolutions and the like.

Trouser Pattern

Trouser Pattern

The front (left) has a grown on fly, the side piece (top) extends across the front.

Overlap Seam Allowances

Overlap Seam Allowances

I pinned the pieces overlapping the seam allowances on the side seam, keeping the grain lines as parallel as possible.

Pocket Pieces

Pocket Pieces

The pocket pieces , left one faces back the front, right one includes the side and a piece supporting the front, remain unchanged.

The point where the pocket opening ends is marked.

Pocket Opening

Pocket Opening

Then the facing/pocket is stitched ending exactly at the point marked.

Pocket Facing

Pocket Facing

The side front piece is stitched to the back, ending the stitching exactly at the previous stitching. It helps to pin the seam allowance of the pocket piece out of the way.

Side Piece

Side Piece

This is how it looks from the wrong side. Then it’s snipped to the point of the Vee, in order to turn the pieces through.

Wrong Side of Work

Wrong Side of Work

The pocket piece is pressed towards the front and a line of understitching put in to hold the turnings in place and make a crisper turn.

Understitch

Understitch

The side front piece is pressed over the pocket, pressing the seam allowances to the back.

Side Pressed Over Pocket

Side Pressed Over Pocket

To stitch round the pocket, a guide is handy.

Stitch Template

Stitch Template

This is how it looks from the right side when finished.

Right Side

Right Side

The last pair made like this have lasted through wearing and washing without the vulnerable point of the Vee giving way, but it could be supported with some decorative stitching, a button or top stitching. This fabric is more slubby than the stuff I used for the first two pairs, it may fray at the point in wear and get a fix along those lines.

I like this style of pockets in trousers, and like linen trousers without a side seam. It occurs to me that a rtw garment without a seam could have pockets inserted like this, perhaps using a decorative contrast fabric.

 

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
This entry was posted in Pattern Making, Sewing methods, Uncategorized and tagged . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to No Seam Trouser Pockets

  1. mrsmole says:

    What a clever idea! Do you ever use a scrap of tricot interfacing at the point of the “V”? It might add bulk with all those layers but linen likes to be supported at stress points. Love the color! I had to laugh at thinking of fabric “festering” in the stash!!! Please share a photo of them being worn once you are done.

    Like

  2. felicia says:

    This looks nice. I haven’t yet made any trousers with angled pockets, so I’d better try them with side seams before trying this, I think. Great colour. I love linen pants.

    Like

  3. fabrickated says:

    Lovely idea and so nicely executed. And great fabric. Thank you for the explanation.

    Like

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