We like to think that posts should be instructive, leading beginners to the summit of couture standards. Jolly admirable, but do you always have the time? Let’s put in a plea for good enough, before ducking behind the parapet.
I rehashed the Burda 05/2016/115, encouraged by Felicia’s idea that maybe knocking out the excess ease, I could get it to fit on my red jersey.
Truthfully, I couldn’t. The extra width of the batwing drapes takes each piece over whatever half of 145 cms is (brain dead this morning!).
Here it is, with a back seam put in so that the pattern could be dovetailed. It’s not perfectly sewn. The voice on my shoulder was predicting another flop, which is pretty much what I got. The neck band is not exactly evenly stretched, seam finishing was skipped, I ignored tunnelling on my mock coverstitch hem, and top stitched the sleeve hem instead of invisible hemming. If something’s worth doing, sometimes it’s worth doing badly. I now know that Burda 05/16/115 makes me look as though I’ve been sniffing fumes in Delphi, and sometime later got put away for it. I like the red though.
Shorter might be an improvement, but the side drapes aren’t stopping the post op nightie look.
Gory details of the pattern slashing below
The measurement of the pattern across the hipline showed a good four inches, ten cms of ease, way too much for the fluid jersey the pattern calls for. A quick check, wrapping a piece round myself and measuring it confirmed that the ease should go. It was reduced by taking out on the half pattern 1cm on the centre back and front, folding out 1cm through the whole length from the shoulder to hem front and back, and removing some from the side seams.
The size I cut was a 38 which should be the right hip size and too small for the bodice (inverse pear). There’s still plenty of ease in the top part, but the armhole drops deeply, so some side bra flash is inevitable if you don’t walk around with your arms pinned to your sides, or make a camisole. The back is designed to overlap the front at the neckline, held in place at the band. The shoulder area falls free and open from there.
On the plus side, it only took an hour to stitch up in the evening after a day spent netting the soft fruit, bathing the dog, and darning the huge entry and exit holes he then made in the aforementioned netting chasing a ball and getting muddy again. Another plus, the dress is very airy and loose – beach cover-up for fat days? swanning about on the terrace on a summer evening?
Stitching goes – two small darts to form shoulder line in the back piece, side seams, hem armhole opening, stitch a band of folded fabric round the neck overlapping shoulders, hem skirt.
This is the predecessor, shortened to tunic length. Eldest daughter visited, fished it out of the sin bin, tried it on and found a fit. For the record her usual pattern size is three up from mine. Your arms go through the line that looks like the shoulder, and the sides drop down in a drape.