Here’s the top made from the printed silk I photographed last week.
I drafted the pattern as a wrap over, ending hip length.
The wrap is organised so that the front waist dart will support the button and interior press stud.
The neckline facings turn to the right side and are top stitched down. The bust dart is divided up, because it’s for a dd cup I’ve put part of it in a shoulder dart and part in small centre front darts. Using some of the darting at the CF helped prevent gaping in previous wrap over dresses and tops, so I’m hoping it will work here too. The sleeves are slightly belled and finish in a centred point at the wrist, faced back.
To economise on fabric I put a dart in the side in lieu of a side seam. There was just 1.35 metres. I haven’t decided whether to make a tie belt – this could probably be squeezed out of the left overs.
To calculate fabric for a top you usually work on once length plus 3/4 yard, 70cms for sleeves, but making a wrap means adding the best part of another front to the equation. That can mean twice length plus sleeves, depending on the usable width of fabric and bust measurement. Larger sizes sometimes need this extra fabric even when there is no wrap over. Cutting out seam allowances at the side seams by converting the shaped seam to a dart saved 4 to 6 cms
I’m wearing this to give an approximate idea of the general shape, but it’s cut for one of my daughters, who is a bit curvier than me, though about the same general size.
I managed to get some brown buttons for the concealed fastening on the brown shirt in the village haberdasher/lingerie shop, and was pretty happy to find she is stocking a selection of Schmetz machine needles now. This could be a life saver, given the rate I eat microtex .
I’ve some grey and some brown chiffon buried somewhere in stash, which could make an alternative top, perhaps finishing just below the waistline.