Stitch Up Week

I stitched up two pairs of trousers adapted from Vogue 2981, same size, same black cotton drill. Here’s mine. A bit snug over my thermals, but Spring is only here in name as yet.

Black Cotton Drill Trousers

Black Cotton Drill Trousers

I’m wearing it with the green embossed velvet top already posted. The flat yoke front of the adapted pants style works better for me than the original fly front under tops like this. The fly front invariably creates a bump. The second photo shows the yoke shape in this adaptation.



I cut a shirt pattern for a top to go with the brown and silver cloque skirt. I’m making this in pieces salvaged from a failed dress. The dress was empire line, but the project got ditched. Here’s one of the unpicked sleeves. The original was a couple of sizes up from me, but the different placement of the curves still made it a squeeze.

Unpicked Sleeve

Unpicked Sleeve

The pattern is drafted with a fly front. I’d like concealed buttons and an understated look.

There could be a couple of booby traps along the way. First, my fabric is quite hefty, with a brushed, almost suede look. Will the extra folded fabric on the centre front be too bulky?

Cutting the extra width for the fly front as well as princess line panels meant I could only squeeze out 1cm turnings. That’s the second trip wire. Without doing a toile, and minimum seam allowance, if I misjudged the fit in the pattern draft it’s toast. The fabric is free, but I hope it works because it’s a good colour with the cloque – not an exact match but sets it off nicely.

Web Glories

Before relegating an unlovely suiting in stash to be the next casualty of Pup’s investigations into the fluffy stuffing in the inside of his bed cushion (another new cover needed!) I did a burn test on it, just in case it was, after all, one of the wools I’d purchased in a sale. It wasn’t. We used to test fabrics like this, back in the day, before labelling and consumer protection. Now, at least from proper shops, you can generally rely on what it says on the tin.

I did a search to check if I’d remembered the test correctly, and came across this . Scroll down and there’s a test with bleach. Accidental splashes while cleaning the bathroom aside, I’ve never bleach tested to identify fibre. Anyone else tried this?


About jay

I design and draft patterns
This entry was posted in Fabric, Sewing Patterns and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

12 Responses to Stitch Up Week

  1. sew2pro says:

    You look very elegant and cool in your outfit and I agree that the yoke is more sensible that a fly front especially as floppy velvet tends to cling rather lovingly to our curves.

    I have ruined a few garments while cleaning the toilet with bleach but have never done the bleach test deliberately – who’d have thunk….? But I think the bleach you buy in the supermarkets ain’t the same stuff I used to help myself to liberally when I was a teen mass-bleaching denim. The eighties stuff was runny (even more splashy) yet strong and removed colour instantly whereas the thick bleach I’ve had since leaving home is more insidious (you think you may have got away with it…) I don’t know why this change has taken place; I feel like I missed a meeting. Health ‘n safety I guess.

    Good luck with the shirt!


  2. Steph says:

    Thus is very sensible. I have the fly bubble issue with a denim skirt that drives me crazy when I wear a top over it. I like the trousers with the yoke.

    This is going to sound ridiculous, but I usually know exactly what is in fabric without doing a burn test. I call it my psychological allergy to synthetics. 🙂 A bleach test sounds intriguing though.


  3. fabrickated says:

    The green top looks great on – thank you for modelling it Jay. I do fly fronts because they are fashionable, but really prefer a side or back zip on trousers. I like the burn test, but can usually tell by feel, look, and recovery of fabric. I have tested acetate with acetone – that is fairly dramatic, I tell you! But bleach is new to me. I may try it, but like Sew2Pro I have had some disasters. I remember a very nice mid-purple linen jacket that I had. I walked near a kitchen work surface that I had previously bleached and got a running line of bleached spots across the waist level.


  4. Your trousers look great, and whilst I can see the reasons for the front yoke I prefer a fly front on my trousers.
    I haven’t ever come across bleach being used to identify fabric. I need to look into that more deeply. Thanks for bringing it to attention.


  5. I like the front yoke. I haven’t seen many patterns with this yet though – usually I have the ones with the fly fronts. I have never heard of a bleach test!


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