Have you a few patterns re-used so many times it’s almost embarassing? Daughter let drop that she could do with about five more pairs of trousers from Vogue 2981.
In the spirit of stash-busting, the first three used:-
- a navy plain weave fabric with a very fine pinstripe about every 2cms, bought aeons ago, by same daughter, after very wide pants in similar fabric were featured in Vogue magazine.
2. a navy twill, probably ex East End market.
3. a black crepe, probably too lightweight for trousers, but same daughter brought this to the table, so I used it anyway – not too bad.
The pattern includes some of sewing’s magic techniques. Welt pockets, ‘Italian’ side pockets and waist darts converted to a smooth fitted yoke. Successfully working these mysteries still brings a little endorphin surge. Then I feel happy as a puppy who’s figured out how a door handle works…… or a space engineer who gets the docking mechanism right. (I read they needed to design an androgenous mechanism because neither side wanted to be the ‘female’ in the typical joint structure. If true, Mother Earth must have been splitting her sides . If not true, it’s still good for a chuckle.)
The changes made to the pattern as printed are deepening the yoke and drafting a grown on fly instead of a separate fly piece. Why have separate fly pieces on women’s trousers? To me they just add bulk where it’s no help at all.
On the first pair, I forgot that I needed to change the cut of the yoke to suit the different fly. You can see it has an overlap. On the twill pair there’s an underlap the width of the zip guard.
The crepe pair has a different yoke shape, hastily drafted, a side zip, and no back pockets. I like this style for the side zip. Isn’t this easier to wear under tops?
For the welts, I ignored the measurements and worked in machine foot widths. Is there a marking tool that gives an accurate enough line on dark fabrics? I haven’t found one. The method given in the instructions is to tack down the welts. Isn’t it fun picking tacking out of machine stitches? No, not really. I stitch them down and then stitch the pocket on the same line. Finding the exact spot to lower the machine needle is harder now my eyesight has taken a nosedive. Laying a piece of contrasting thread horizontally at the first stitch and pulling it clear when the needle has found its mark helps.
Finally A Pair for Me is in the pipeline. I’m trying a different yoke shape, side zip, no belt loops or back pockets – never use them anyway!
To redraft the yoke I lined up the front pieces matching fitting lines. At this point I found that the fitting lines were about 8mm out at the CF. This could have been bad tracing or original pattern inaccuracy. You don’t have to be much out on matching curves to get different lengths. It’s easier to work alterations with your own pattern, or a pattern like a Marfy, single size, no seam allowances. The downside of multi-size is a degree of fudge slipping in.
I redrew the deeper line on the trouser piece and traced it through to get the shape needed to add to the yoke.
This got tidied up a little, the yoke was given side seams instead of CF and CB, and the new front traced off.
I’m trying this in a twill weave white cotton. Assembly isn’t difficult – pleats pinned down, then the pocket faces back the raw edge of the pocket opening.
The side section is stitched WS together to the pocket piece, trimmed and stitched RS together to form a french seam.
Then the legs are assembled.
This is the finish used inside, raw edges turned under and edge stitched.
So far so good. Tomorrow I’ll find out if I like the new yoke or not.
Serendipidous Sewing Searches and Web Grazing Goodies
I’m taking a moment to pinpoint some of the things I’ve been grateful to find on the sewing web this week.
Whyred. How could I get through Wednesday’s without my dose of ‘deeply shallow thoughts’ and hilarious analysis of fashion’s follies. That opening shot of hollow eyed teen resentfulness ………..
Leather . Kate sharing a good source, not a million miles from my regular UK stomping ground. Yipee!
Andrea’s Blog Have I visited this before? I can’t remember, but aren’t the stripes on this top snazzy?
This is one of the nicest drapey dresses I’ve seen for a while
I may never get the urge to cover a parasol, but if it happens I know where to go for clues
This Philip Treacy Hat speaks for itself
and finally Wow