By the Light of the Moon


Did you watch it? So beautiful, majestic and peaceful.

I’d decided to be sensible and sleep, but was awake, stupidly turning over coat/jacket possibilities in my mind. Ideas for quilting the top fabric to the lining were beginning to jell in the restless brain, when


If the whole lining is quilted to the top fabric à la Chanel, my pocket innards will have nowhere to hide. I’m thanking the moonlight for this wake up. A test or two to check if it can be part quilted, but leave pocket hiding space.

This morning I altered my block to make it jacket friendly. If you’ve begun pattern drafting, and are wondering how you can develop your basic block for simple overgarments, this is what I’m doing.

Back and Front Bodice – Add 1.5 cms to each side seam ( totals an extra 6cms). Lower the armhole by 1.5 cms. Raise the Shoulder point by 0.5 cms. The amount of ease is a variable feast. I’m going for a fairly minimal extra amount because the idea is a lightweight, spring/autumn top garment which fits in a standard way,  not oversize, like the Burda coat, previous post.

Oversize Coat

Oversize Coat

There’s an element of guesswork in choosing the ease amount, because different fabrics, linings and interlinings behave differently. So there is an argument to balance out my frequent carping about Vogue ease acreage. I will be leaving 2.5 cms turnings on the side seams to give myself wriggle room if my guess turns out to be poor. Vogue of course are stuck with 5/8ths of an inch and have to keep you happy if your fabric is mega bulky and tweedy.

Sleeve –  bats off the bodice changes. Draw a line from underarm point to underarm point and one half the measurement the bodice UP was lowered by (ie 0.7 ish -heck, ignore the half mm.). Extend this new Top Line out to the sides of the original sleeve block and walk the bodice block from the balance points, curving down to the new Top Line. Where it hits is the new underarm point. You do this on the back and front of the sleeve and will notice that the new UPs give you a wider sleeve, helpful for a jacket. Drop a line from this for the sleeve sides. You can drop it at right angles to top line or take it in to the original wrist points, I do the latter.

The second bodice armhole change was at the shoulder point. I raised it very slightly. For a squarer look you can raise it more. I’m going to use just a suggestion of shoulder padding, again going for a casual look. You now do a similar walking exercise with the top part of the bodice blocks around the top part of the sleeve, and aim to have this curve finish with about 2.5 cms of ease in the sleeve head. Some pattern makers argue that sleeve head ease is a myth, that you don’t need it. I’ve already posted about sleeve fitting, so not rabitting on about it again. I like about 2.5cms so there!






About jay

I design and draft patterns
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4 Responses to By the Light of the Moon

  1. sew2pro says:

    So you’re not tempted by this sort of look (pocketbags resolutions) then?

    I’ve had two nights of bad sleep which is not like me at all. I only found out about the moon this morning 😦


  2. jay says:

    I’m going to put pockets in. In the jacket in the link the pocket bags are between the lining and the shell. It’s whether I can combine that with quilting in the lining.


  3. mrsmole says:

    Great tips, Jay! Why not make the pockets an inside “feature”? Isn’t that what designers do when they cannot figure out how to include something? Marcy Tilton slaps those puppies on everywhere!


    • jay says:

      Oh heck another great idea mrsmole! Usually I’m only to glad to have the insides inside. Then only I know if the front and back pocket bag don’t quite line up or I’ve skipped neatening the edges, but as a feature – can it be done?


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