Truck with Tucks

I’ve taken a few days out from the coat decision process to sew a shirt in some orange voile I bought in a sale from a local Myrtille three years ago. The idea was to play around with meandering pin tucks as a dummy run for making something similar in white voile or lawn next summer, when … ahem, I’ve diminished my stash of fabric enough to feel ok about buying some for specific projects.

A fearsome double hemstitch needle  made the tucks. It doesn’t make true pin tucks, but does a fair facsimile with a hint of hemstitch holes.

Properly drafting a pattern for tucks involves slashing the pattern and spreading for each tuck.  I eschewed this labour intensive process, winging it for the spacing and spreading the pattern pieces on the cloth.

Cheat Sheet for Tucks

Cheat Sheet for Tucks

The bust dart was moved into the line of tucks. It was worked by trimming back the sides of the dart to 5mm and pressing them open, then working three tucks over it, extending them the full length of the shirt. This took care of neatening the dart turnings. The underside of the double needle work zigzags the bobbin thread covering the turnings.

Dart Tucked

Dart Tucked

Above is the first of three tucks taken over the dart and running down to the hem. You can just see on the left that there is a seam (dart seam) in the centre of the tuck, and not in the right hand part of the tuck. Its pretty well invisible when all the tucks are done.

Double Needle Tucks

Double Needle Tucks

The double needle is doing exactly what you strive to stop it doing when you use it to hem jersey, the bobbin thread tightens the fabric underneath and creates narrow tucks.

Fronts, Unpressed

Fronts, Unpressed

Sleeve Unpressed

Sleeve Unpressed

Cuff

Cuff

On the Home Straight

On the Home Straight

Almost finished, photographed with buttons just plonked on. French seams neatened the inside. What else can be said? Yellow dressmaker carbon and a white pencil marked the tuck lines. On the orange this isn’t a serious problem, but a white version will need more thought. Perhaps I’ll have to resort to painting lines in washing blue and laundering.

This make it up as you go along shirt was fun to do.

 

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
This entry was posted in Designed by me, Fabric, Sewing methods and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

8 Responses to Truck with Tucks

  1. fabrickated says:

    Gosh this is impressive Jay. I especially love the cuffs, actually. I want to do “real” pin tucks at some point, just straight ones, but this is amazingly inspirational. I love what you are doing.

    Like

  2. mrsmole says:

    I’ve never seen that needle perform such magic unless it was on tea towels or table runners…fabulous! And clever of you to make the lines by slicing the pattern. Very nice that you also did a pattern on the usually forgotten sleeves. All in all, you end up with a masterpiece!

    Like

  3. sew2pro says:

    I had imagined straight lines but this is very ambitious indeed. Well done!

    Like

  4. Tia Dia says:

    This is just beautiful. I would never have thought of this. Thank you for sharing.

    Like

  5. I have learned something new! Thank you. You have done a beautiful job there.

    Like

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