I’ve taken a few days out from the coat decision process to sew a shirt in some orange voile I bought in a sale from a local Myrtille three years ago. The idea was to play around with meandering pin tucks as a dummy run for making something similar in white voile or lawn next summer, when … ahem, I’ve diminished my stash of fabric enough to feel ok about buying some for specific projects.
A fearsome double hemstitch needle made the tucks. It doesn’t make true pin tucks, but does a fair facsimile with a hint of hemstitch holes.
Properly drafting a pattern for tucks involves slashing the pattern and spreading for each tuck. I eschewed this labour intensive process, winging it for the spacing and spreading the pattern pieces on the cloth.
The bust dart was moved into the line of tucks. It was worked by trimming back the sides of the dart to 5mm and pressing them open, then working three tucks over it, extending them the full length of the shirt. This took care of neatening the dart turnings. The underside of the double needle work zigzags the bobbin thread covering the turnings.
Above is the first of three tucks taken over the dart and running down to the hem. You can just see on the left that there is a seam (dart seam) in the centre of the tuck, and not in the right hand part of the tuck. Its pretty well invisible when all the tucks are done.
The double needle is doing exactly what you strive to stop it doing when you use it to hem jersey, the bobbin thread tightens the fabric underneath and creates narrow tucks.
Almost finished, photographed with buttons just plonked on. French seams neatened the inside. What else can be said? Yellow dressmaker carbon and a white pencil marked the tuck lines. On the orange this isn’t a serious problem, but a white version will need more thought. Perhaps I’ll have to resort to painting lines in washing blue and laundering.
This make it up as you go along shirt was fun to do.