Overshirt Progress

I’ve been slowly assembling a pattern test for an overshirt with floaty sleeves. The fabric is a man made crepe in a petrol blue which has been in stash too long for me to recall purchasing details. So long in stash in fact that its proving hard to press out the wrinkles!ghandistyle

Waisted

Waisted

The sleeves are cut on the bias, open at the front, overlapping at the sleeve head, the rest of the shirt is pretty basic. The neckline is a high wide Vee front and back. There’s a shirt style opening on it at the moment.

Back of Overshirt

Back of Overshirt

It has a narrow long tie belt and the side seams are slit for 5 inches.

Belted

Belted

I have some blue buttons which look fairly good, but I’m hoping to stumble on some in old gold similar to one in my button tin, and use a narrow gold belt instead of the tie.

Reasonable match buttons

Reasonable match buttons

metal buttons

metal buttons

Button on the left is the one I like for it. Its a warm broken gold which might or might not show up on yer screen . Nefertiti or whoever it was on the right is brassier and a bit heavy.

There are two changes I’m considering for this draft. The sleeves are cut in two pieces with an underarm seam which made it easier to fit on my fabric. The seam serves no structural purpose so that could go.

open bell sleeve

open bell sleeve

The shirt style opening might get changed  to a keyhole with one button at the top or faced slit with rouleau loops inset. In fact looking at it through the camera lens, the facing could be designed so that the opening could turn back. The length of the shirt might also need to be adjusted, but that’s minor.

Its cut to fit one daughter and isn’t the size of the dress form it’s on here. This is giving it  blousier look in the top than intended. (The form is my standard 12 and the pattern is 12 with a DD cup size change.) Usually unfitted waistlines are a bad idea on D cup and above, but here I’m hoping that the floaty crepe fabric will knock any tent-semblance on the head.

I really like the sleeves, but probably need to tweak the sleeve head pattern a bit and am musing about changing the dart to a french dart.

Basically, as a first run through I’m happy.

 

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
This entry was posted in Designed by me, Pattern Making, Uncategorized. Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to Overshirt Progress

  1. piakdy says:

    Cool shirt cool design! Are you planning on using the gold detailing with the same fabric? I think the color combination would look great. Absolutely love the sleeve detail, but the whole thing together is even cooler. Will your DD be modeling for the final make for us?

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  2. I’m not surprised you are happy with it. It is a perfect blue and very lovely! (Haha “solid blue top” is on my list. So timely!) Funny, I saw your buttons before I read your words and the gold one on the left just jumped out at me!

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  3. The details on this top are really lovely! The sleeves are especially pretty, and I really like the fabric you chose. I hope your DD likes it!

    Like

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