Suit Yourself

Its finished! In the end I decided to leave the front edge to edge, just working a concealed fastening to keep it together, and skipped the pockets. Enough already.

Suit with velvet trim

Suit with velvet trim


Photographed in five second break from freezing downpour. Sorry, there was no time to fuss about coordinating accessories!

To recap the jacket construction, its a simple shoulder princess line, not interfaced, lined with bias cut satin. The edges are faced to the right side with a wavy edged piece of deep green velvet, top stitched. The skirt is bog standard straight skirt cut, with no side seams – all the shaping in darts. I have about four inches of ease in the pattern at bust level, which is enough to get it over a couple of fine knit jumpers in this jersey fabric with slight stretch.

This week I also made a long sleeved Tee shirt roughly basing the design on a sleeveless tee I made earlier.

T shirt with shoulder drape

earlier version

This version has a simpler pattern construction with no twist.

tee with contrast bands

teeneckline is a shaped band which incorporates one side of the bust darting, the other side being formed into three small tucks.

Its in a moderate stretch cotton lycra jersey in black and green, very easy to wear and yoga friendly.  This daft pose attempts to show green diagonal swish .

side panels

side panels


I’m editing this to add a note about how I did the neckline bit. Both the outer pieces and the facing of the band were interfaced with a fusible keeping the fusible to the finished size (that is without seam allowances). The dart and tucks were done in the black front. When I did this I made up the band by stitching front to back and stitched the shoulder seams, but honestly this was just being pedantic. You can more easily leave shoulder seams until after you have applied the bands. To do the curve at the front band I stitched from the point to the shoulder on the short side and pulled it off the machine. Then I put the needle into a couple of stitches back from the point and stitched the second, long side, swivelling and cutting at the corner.

The facing pieces were stitched at the shoulders, obviously, stitched RS together, turned and stitched in the ditch. If I’d been less lazy I might have switched to a double needle and top stitched round the curve instead to hold the facing. That could look good.


About jay

I design and draft patterns
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7 Responses to Suit Yourself

  1. Looks like the shaped bands/swish would be difficult to sew in – no bumpiness at all?


  2. mrsmole says:

    Love that yoga top…how did you get it all to lay so flat with no wrinkles? That neck curve is mesmerizing!


    • jay says:

      No secret mrsmole. I interfaced the neckband with a lightweight fusible and sewed the front as far as the point in one pass (short side). Then I sewed the longer side in one pass overlapping the stitches at the point. I did it ‘properly’ , that is band joined at shoulder first then applied, but afterwards I decided that there was no point in doing this, easier to apply the bands to each of the front and back then sew the shoulder seam. I was particular about my seam allowances – Icm. It was surprisingly easy.


  3. The neckline is absolutely striking–well done!


  4. fabrickated says:

    I love the colours and unique design of your yoga top Jay. And the suit is just great. It does deserve to be dressed up but I am sure the two halves will serve you well with jeans/ more casual tops. Lovely work, as ever.


  5. Love both of these. The workout top looks awesome and is very you, the suit looks super pro. I haven’t seen boucle fabric in that colour outside of high end RTW. Also, bonus points for incorporating red into corporate wear.


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