Fairy Tales

The parcity of posts lately  might lead anyone to suppose I’d pricked my finger on a microtex and fallen asleep for a hundred years. Actually, I’ve been a busy bee, but  my camera suffered an operator error or two.

Before this London trip , I was here and made a coat. Really, I did, though the photos were way too fuzzy, and can’t be retaken yet.

It started well – that is, it provided the right excuse to pay a visit to a new to me fabric shop. 

You find it off Brick Lane, by the way. Turn down Quaker St.  Its open on Sundays, which so happened to be my first day in London that trip. Too serendipidous.  Brick Lane maybe off the tourist itinery if its a first London visit, but on Sundays is good for  pleasant stroll past stalls selling multi cultural hot food, others selling vintage bits and bobs, and checking out the ever changing street art in (amongst others) Hanbury St, which crosses it. You’ll come across one of the most comprehensive art materials stores a short way down this street, and that too is open on Sundays.

I found a nice navy wool and burgundy lining,  valiantly resisting all other covetable wools and wool/silk blends.

Looking for a velvet for the collar took me later to the Sewing andCraft superstore in Balham, which didn’t have the right one, but was good for lots of irrational haberdashery stash building and a couple of pieces of leather. They had a great selection of large black buttons, but not navy.

I trundled to Oxford Circus , and had a choice, supplemented by an even bigger choice mail order from promptly from  Duttons for Buttons. I’m sorted for several navy coats in the future now.

So that’s it, coat is sewn. Pictures will follow sometime, and with it a quick perusal of the methods of binding buttonholes.

Meanwhile, on the method melée topic, which direction do you press your darts? I was taught waist darts pressed to the centre, bust dart upwards. You read that right. The rationale is that its the outside of the garment which counts, and having waist darts pressed to the centre gives a visual impression of a narrower panel – inch reduction again. The bust dart going upwards because it is seen from above, so on the outside, the fabric stand slightly proud, and reduces the chance of being aware of the stitched line of the dart cutting across the bodice. What’s your preference?



About jay

I design and draft patterns
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4 Responses to Fairy Tales

  1. sew2pro says:

    Didn’t know about the shop off Brick Lane and I thought I knew everything about this town. Thanks.

    As for darts, I do exactly as you and for the same reasons. I ‘converted’ overnight to bust darts up after reading a post about it here: http://buzzybeesworld.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/bust-darts-up-or-down.html


  2. helen says:

    Vertical darts towards the centre but bust darts downwards here. Looking forward to pictures of finished coat.


  3. I press waist darts to the centre and bust darts down. But now you describe why you press them up, I think I will try that. It makes a lot of sense.


  4. mrsmole says:

    Depending on how wide the side bust darts are, they can be slit and pressed open thus eliminating any bulk at all. Everything else gets pressed to the center. Normally I press darts down only because i was taught that in design school…and for no other reason…next time I’ll press them up and see if it is better looking from the right side.


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