I’ve had this book for years, much consulted, as you can see from the state of the cover.
My review was all planned and then I stumbled on an excellent one here. No need to reinvent the wheel then!
‘Dress Fitting’ follows through from the author’s pattern drafting books, uses the same terms, and expands the information in them to the problems of individual fit. Chapter eight deals with altering her blocks to fit individual measurements, a shortcut for a bespoke designer/dressmaker to making a personal block for a client. Whilst you could follow the method with any drafting system and table of measurements, its obviously easier if you’re using the same one as the book.
There are modelling exercises ( draping exercises) designed to develop an understanding of the basic blocks, ease and grain, the distribution of fullness and darting. Then the book moves to fitting for specific figure individualities, in the order which the alterations would normally be tackled.
I found her notes on sleeve fitting problems to be very comprehensive and logical. What is especially helpful about this book is its undogmatic approach, there is a lot of hands on wisdom in suggesting alternative ways of arriving at a reasonable fit where there are several problems impinging on the same garment part, or where the dressmaker finds herself with insufficient seam allowances to make the ideal adjustment. Unlike modern fitting books which use lots of photographs of individuals, this book relies on diagrams. I find this no disadvantage. Photographs can sometimes muddy the waters, in that it isn’t as easy to focus on the problem in hand when you look at a real life figure presenting several ‘problems’ at once.
As you would expect, an excellent book. The ‘Classic Edition’ is still available.