M.Rohr, Pattern Drafting and Grading, Women’s and Misses’ Garment Design was a well known text when I learned to draft. Then it somehow dropped off the radar. A few years ago, browsing internet as one does, I spotted a copy. In a fit of nostalgia and not at all put off by the fact that I’d have to wait for it to come from Australia, I added it to my shelves.
Kathleen Fasanella proposed a reprint idea, I don’t think it has happened yet. It seems this book has joined the sought after texts people will pay silly money for.( $757.60 was one listing, now that surely must be a misprint? For a warehouse full of them?)
It is thorough, and you could learn to draft from it. You can learn to draft from lots of books. Just don’t fall for books with the ‘easy method’ stuff with no bust darts (or their alternative princess seams) . I think you can guess why. Rohr, happily, was written when women were women and allowed to be woman shaped.
This was published too before we got to need instant learning gratification. Don’t expect in your face graphics or design graduate layout if you buy a copy of this book. Here is a typical page…..
Tiny illustrations and diagrams, typed text and dinky little arrows wandering between the two. But, isn’t it marvellous, fascinating in an archeological way? Dig in for the information and you will be richly rewarded.
1/4 scale blocks are included, printed on card so that you could cut them out, draw round them and scale them up if you don’t want to work your own draft.
Don’t you love the quaint illustrations, every one a gem. Is my gusset showing?
Unique I think to Rohr, is the neck and armhole guide. So, you can knock the price of a fancy ruler off the book cost if you want some purchase justification. This was aeons before the pattern master. Armed with your cardboard cut out, and the instructions on the facing page you can get the curves right, find the shoulder angles and draft a ‘fitted waist’, the old fashioned term for a bodice block to the waist, with all the darting in the waist.
There’s basic Grading in there too – using the shift method Peter Lappin writes about here. Also tables of measurements and taking measurement info. Draping on the stand is not included, its a book for flat drafting.
Upshot of this ramble is I wouldn’t part with my copy, not even for the price of a rust bucket, but if your maiden aunt has one mouldering in a box in the outhouse, rescue it.