Readers with long memories might recall I resolved to sew up some lurking dress patterns in stash fabrics. I’m finally getting round to it! I finished the Tom and Linda Platt V1283 yesterday, using a slate blue/grey jersey.
The line drawing shows how the front gathers give some bust room, but doesn’t let on that the lining is cut without any dart, gather, tuck or fold. FBA crowd beware. Post Dukan diet, and grabbing some of the seam allowance, it worked well enough, but generally, flat fronts don’t rock my socks. The pattern calls for two way stretch by the way, and my fabric was weft stretch only, but quite fine and stretchy just the same.
I wasn’t bowled over when this dress came off the machine, but rock hopping at Rospico today, I warmed to it a bit. Its easy and comfortable, my sunglasses pretended the sun was giving us more than 12 degrees of heat. The cukoos were hooting and the wild orchids flowering, it felt like spring at last, and with leggins, its long sleeves and self fabric lining gave it just the right amount of warm cover to keep the chill wind at bay.
It has a kimono cut sleeve, which you can see better in this shot, below. Some have found these a bit narrow, but its ok for me. I can move my arm above my head without rips or strains, its close fit enough to wear with a cardigan . The underarm seam allowance is stitched a second time and trimmed back closely. There’s no lining in the sleeve – the lining is cut as a sleeveless dress, with the armholes hemmed. There’s no neck facing either, you face back with the lining, and understitch. That makes for fast assembly.
Pattern instructions are generally OK, but I needed to rip out the gathered seam and re-jig the gathers. Maybe I misread the matching of balance marks. The first try had an ungathered section between the front bodice gathers and the front skirt gathers, and more close bunching of the gathers on the back too. This didn’t look like the photo on the pattern envelope, missed the whole design point and gave it a lopsided look on the left hip. I ditched the balance marks and just spread the gathering as best as I could by eye. Then I top stitched the seam close to the edge. Pressing alone didn’t keep the turnings in check.
I stuck bits of masking tape with RF, LB and so on, on the wrong side of the fabric as I pulled the pattern pieces off. The fabric looks nearly, but not quite, the same on the right and wrong side, the front and back pieces are not dissimilar, and of course its asymmetric. These labels were a life saver as I wasn’t firing on all cylinders when I put this dress together.
Wild flowers on the cliffs
I finished Vogue 8417 too, but the photo has to wait until the weather warms a couple more degrees.