Jungle Blues

jungleApologies to CW Stoneking. The cat that inspired my second safari with the jungle fabric  was from some blue planet or the other,  Neptune maybe.  A step down the psychedelia scale from the scorned hat,

maligned titfa

maligned titfa

but still steering clear of the authentic.

This time, I made a self drafted tunic, loosely based on the blighted Burda 12/12 (Burda Redraft).

In the end I didn’t do this

IMG_1081

but this

DSC_0930

Bagginess above the waist kept to a minimum.  I left this as a crappy working pattern rather than drawing it out properly,  because its most likely going to be one of a kind. Rescued crumpled from the bin to show anyone who may want to take this route instead of the Burda draft with the extra underarm flap folded across,( below).

diagram copieWhat I did was close off the right bust dart (folded out top left in the photo), opening it out at an angle to give some room for folds and drapes in the tab, which is drawn at its end. I closed off the left bust dart, opening it to use as gathers or folds under the tab, but decided not to add more bulk in there.  So the red section from the armscye, which I put in the half scale diagram, isn’t there. I added the width of the left waist dart to those gathers and thought it was enough.

I redrew the right waist darts to be angled tucks.

The skirt part, sliced off and at the bottom of the photo is flared out slightly, and a vertical slash and spread put in for gathers under the tab.

I made a faced slit to poke the tab through and liked it better pulled towards the side seam rather than turned back on itself, as in the Burda.

Melissa made a success of the Burda, and pointed me to several other versions, but on me this bulk above and below the tab didn’t look right. This draft has a closer fit in the bodice. Its sacrificed the knot-look the original had at the waist, where the tab turned back, but again, I couldn’t get that to look right on me. Here’s how it tuned out

DSC_0923This photo shows what’s happening around the tab better;

DSC_0922The angled tucks above the diagonal seam are stitched for a couple of inches and (theoretically) line up with a couple of soft pleats in the skirt part, then there’s a bunch of gathers to the right of that in the skirt part. The folds in the tab are over on the right, just above my hand, and its threaded into a faced slit and secured from the inside.

Not the Burda, but works better for me.

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
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13 Responses to Jungle Blues

  1. prttynpnk says:

    Oh, Pella!!! This is amazing and lovely and covetable!!!! Gorgeous!

    Like

  2. mrsmole says:

    Fantastic workaround! You look so slim and stylish and the bow edge just lies there perfectly! Woo Who! The fabric is divine!!!!

    Like

  3. sew2pro says:

    Very good matching of the pleats and a great outfit! Love the colours and goes great with the beads.

    Like

  4. Karen says:

    Oh, it’s lovely – very chic and modern. It definitely works for you!

    Like

  5. Pella says:

    Thanks Marianna, actually one of my pleats didn’t quite match the tuck above it, but I left it, relying on the pattern to cover my tracks.

    Like

  6. Sweeet. I much prefer your version!

    Like

  7. Pingback: Continuing the Mission….in the jungle! « Pretty Grievances

  8. Tia Dia says:

    It’s gorgeous! I love the print and what you did with the redraft.

    Like

  9. mary athey says:

    This is stunning on you. The fabrics amazing and you did a superb.job xx

    Like

  10. sewmanju says:

    Wow looks lovely. You should definitely make this again and again and again!

    Like

  11. Pingback: The Annie Awards! Semi-live and semi-ferocious! | Pretty Grievances

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