Burda redraft

The dress on the cover of December 2012 Burda has this bodice piece.

diagram copieThe triangle of fabric at the top right, tacked on to the side seam, folds back on itself, and gives the fabric gathers which are covered by that tab.

Made up, below, I was less than thrilled with the bulk of fabric from the underarm region.
DSC_0847Can anyone figure why you wouldn’t just do this? IMG_1081The part coloured red in this hastily chopped out trial draft, is made by swinging out a piece of bodice, and gives some fullness to gather or pleat. You could make the swing wider or narrower according to how much gather you liked.

The part outlined in blue gives the drapes which end up in the tab.

Here’s how it looks pinned on the half scale dress form. IMG_1080It still needs some tweaking to get the right amount of fabric to gather in the skirt and bodice, and choose the position of the diagonal skirt/bodice seam, but wouldn’t it be possible to get a similar looking dress without a bulky addition to the bodice side seam and underarm?

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About jay

I design and draft patterns
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6 Responses to Burda redraft

  1. I’m watching this with great interest as I like the idea of the drapey front with the gathers etc though the bulky underarm side of things really put me off.

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  2. My daughter liked this dress so I am watching your experiment with interest – particularly as she will need to have the pattern converted to fit her petite 5 foot 1″ frame.

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  3. sew2pro says:

    Hi Pella
    Just to let you know I’ve passed on two blog awards to you: the Primo Primavera and The One Lovely Blog/Very Inspiring Blogger awards (details on http://www.sew2pro.com/lovely-blogs-abound)

    Thanks for your thinkging sewista posts and for stepping up to challenges!

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  4. Interesting-I was thinking to just drape this one and then cut the pieces according to the slopers I use-but I’ve got too much else on at the moment XD. BTW can you contact me with your details please? I need them to send you the book you won. Cheers.

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  5. Pella says:

    I hope you post pictures if you do this one – there’s a dearth of examples, I’d like to see how others get on with it. I don’t want to do another dress with the same detail at the moment, but thought about making a tunic top, perhaps using the burda pattern, cutting off the triangle and swinging out the side piece. This to see if it works as a pattern adaptation. So thrilled about the book!

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  6. Pingback: Jungle Blues | Pattern Pandemonium

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