The dress on the cover of December 2012 Burda has this bodice piece.
Made up, below, I was less than thrilled with the bulk of fabric from the underarm region.
Can anyone figure why you wouldn’t just do this? The part coloured red in this hastily chopped out trial draft, is made by swinging out a piece of bodice, and gives some fullness to gather or pleat. You could make the swing wider or narrower according to how much gather you liked.
The part outlined in blue gives the drapes which end up in the tab.
Here’s how it looks pinned on the half scale dress form. It still needs some tweaking to get the right amount of fabric to gather in the skirt and bodice, and choose the position of the diagonal skirt/bodice seam, but wouldn’t it be possible to get a similar looking dress without a bulky addition to the bodice side seam and underarm?