Jacket finish line

My white wool jacket is finished. Its been so long, I have not been sewing, but attempting to tame at least some part of the garden. On Friday, my intercostals let me know that enough was enough, and I swapped the chain saw for one of mister pandemonium’s medium weight pain killers, a heat pad, and the sewing machine. The wannabe model shot will have to wait on warmer weather, but here’s the fuzzy hall mirror tiles one so you can see the general lines. Please try to ignore the jogging pants/red jumper styling and imagine it as part of the embryo black and white Spring mini wardrobe, which started out as a Pattern Review competition entry, and fell by the wayside.

I have the bodice cut in panels ending in a small soft pleat. I had a soft pleat at the side seam as well when I took this shot, but decided to take that out, and make the peplum effect a bit more subtle.

This shows the details a tad more clearly, and the close up below shows the bad buttonhole fix. I cut a couple of narrow panels, curving them in at the top to echo the curved collar and pockets, and give it an intentional design feature air. The back is also cut in panels, with small soft pleats at the hip. I changed these from the first design, releasing them a bit higher up, nearer the waistline. The front ones release about three inches below the waist, clearing the pocket flap.

This shot gives a better idea of the sit of the collar at the back.

I took the collar off to get the buttonhole-fix panels in, and changed my interfacing for a softer one. My first attempt had a heavier interfacing on the undercollar and a light one on the top collar. This worked fine to give it enough body to wear turned up, but looked too crisp turned down.

The collar isn’t a true shawl collar, its cut as a separate piece. I wanted the neckline to scoop in a gentle curve, and that seemed the best solution. The undercollar is cut in two pieces with a centre back seam. Its a two piece sleeve.


About jay

I design and draft patterns
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4 Responses to Jacket finish line

  1. sewbusylizzy says:

    Such a lot of work and attention to detail – great job you should be proud.


  2. I love the collar and the back panels. And, it looks like it fits really nice.


  3. sew2pro says:

    Well done, it’s a lovely jacket, smart and feminine.


  4. I love the panel lines particularly and the lovely silhouette through the waist with the peplum and collar lines. Very nice.


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