I think of this as cheating. You know that slightly tense moment when you have to cut through your beautifully constructed coat or jacket shell to place a welt or flap pocket in what you fervently hope will be the right place? With the suggestion hovering in the back of your mind that you might not get the second one lined up just so on the other side ?
Well, this pattern design trick, which I found in a Burda mag pattern, avoids those pitfalls. Simply, you run the pocket between two panel lines and slice the panel or panels in half where the pocket will lie. You need to have planned it at the toile stage, because seam allowances have to go on the edges of those sliced panel pieces.
So, here’s the pocket flap stitched to the top part of two panels. You could put a binding in there as well as the flap or instead of it.
Here’s the pocket back, which needs to either be made entirely of the outer fabric or at least have the top section of it in the fashion fabric. Its stitched along the same line as the flap, yes, you can do this in one pass if you’re confident you’ve got it all lined up.
And with the panels joined either side of it. Its easier to do this in stages, first the bottom part of the seam, pushing the pocket bag upwards out of the way, then the top part, with the pocket back down in position, running the stitches just a fraction over the stitches of the bottom part of the seam.
Ahem. How not to make a decent job, is, apparently, sew tricky bits whilst thinking about one’s neighbour’s latest scam in a long running leylandii saga. Here’s hoping they look better with the buttons in.