Pocket Work Around

I think of this as cheating. You know that slightly tense moment when you have to cut through your beautifully constructed coat or jacket shell to place a welt or flap pocket in what you fervently hope will be the right place? With the suggestion hovering in the back of your mind that you might not get the second one lined up just so on the other side ?

Well, this pattern design trick, which I found in a Burda mag pattern, avoids those pitfalls. Simply, you run the pocket between two panel lines and slice the panel or panels in half where the pocket will lie. You need to have planned it at the toile stage, because seam allowances have to go on the edges of those sliced panel pieces.

So, here’s the pocket flap stitched to the top part of two panels. You could put a binding in there as well as the flap or instead of it.

And here’s the underpocket stitched to the bottom part of the two panels and turned to the inside. Again, you can insert a piping or binding on the edge.

Here’s the pocket back, which needs to either be made entirely of the outer fabric or at least have the top section of it in the fashion fabric. Its stitched along the same line as the flap, yes, you can do this in one pass if you’re confident you’ve got it all lined up.

Same thing from the wrong side, panel pieces on top.

Pocket bag sewn up.

And with the panels joined either side of it. Its easier to do this in stages, first the bottom part of the seam, pushing the pocket bag upwards out of the way, then the top part, with the pocket back down in position, running the stitches just a fraction over the stitches of the bottom part of the seam.

So, pockets in without a hitch I next bodged my bound buttonholes.

 Ahem. How not to make a decent job, is, apparently, sew tricky bits whilst thinking about one’s neighbour’s latest scam in a long running leylandii saga. Here’s hoping they look better with the buttons in.


About jay

I design and draft patterns
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4 Responses to Pocket Work Around

  1. I’ve done this after the fact (finding my welt pockets somehow not exactly symmetrical), cut them off and recreated the bottom half with the pockets in the new seam. Your way, planned at the outset, is so much better. Note to self: must plan ahead next time…….


  2. Luckily I had enough fabric to cut new panels for the lower part. I didn’t have enough length to fiddle the seam allowance, but those discarded pieces might find life in another project……. one hopes.


  3. Oh thank you for the tip from Burda about seaming where the pockets will be. I will remember that for when I am ready for jacket construction. Amazingly sensible of Burda.


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