Modified Magic

I took another look at ‘Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics’,  Straight Lines and Curves A. Its the one illustrated on the book cover. Here’s the half scale I tried last time. Stitching the centre shoulder panel to the front and back curves the way its drafted, stretching it to fit the shapes, makes the wavy shapes pull and dip towards the middle. What would it be like if the panel was cut to the finished length of the curves and not stretched instead? I cut this in a firmer jersey to try it. Front view below.

Side view.The wobbles aren’t pulling out of shape. I’m still not feeling enough love to buy some  jersey and make it up though. Its the germ of an interesting garment idea, I like the waves along the shoulder and sleeve, but like the other examples I’ve worked in half scale, I’m not sure how it would translate to fitting full size and three dimensionally, or how the shapes created would hold up in wear. Would they move and distort? And why choose a stretch fabric to make something with distinctive regular shapes not following body contours? It seems counter-intuitive.

The triangles in this pattern also seemed to cry out for a firm fabric, but did work in jersey, maybe because they’re coupled with some draping effect.

Lots more sticking out shoulder ideas in ‘Fashion Details, 1,000 ideas from Neckline to Waistline, Pockets to Pleats’, (Rockport Publishers). Here’s a dress by Vassilios Kostetsos.

And an intriguing cut, under the applied decoration (Manish Arora).

This one’s pretty, and less of a challenge to wear (Stas Lopatkin)

(The three images are from the book chapter on shoulders and sleeves.)


About jay

I design and draft patterns
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2 Responses to Modified Magic

  1. sew2pro says:

    Very happy to see you’re dabbling in Pattern Magic! The wavy sleeve in the firmer fabric is awesome. Please, please make it into a dress (not sure if you’d be able to wear a coat though…)

    I’ve been deliberating over giving PM drafting a go for some time and have taken the plunge, finally, by initiating a group challenge.

    If you’d like to join me, or post your experiences with PM, I’d be delighted to hear from you. Click on my name for the link.

    Look forward to hearing from you.


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