I’m continuing doggedly with my drafting review of “Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics”. Today, I looked at ‘Straight Lines and Curves A, the instructions on page 93 of this volume by Tomoko Nakamichi.
I unintentionally became expert in the technique used in this pattern whilst hamfisting many a knitwear seam, accidentally stretching one side against the other as it went through the machine and making waves. Someone must have been looking over my shoulder as I got going with the stitch ripper, and passed this design innovation around. (No, I haven’t shelled out for a walking foot, and don’t have differential feed by the way.)
The waves in SL&C A are built into the pattern. I’m not sure why they’re married to a much shorter length of fabric. From the front view, with everything pulled carefully into place for the shot, the effect is really pretty.
If you stiffened or padded the fabric, you could probably get the curves to stay put, but the shorter piece on the shoulder length would always be pulling against the wave structure I think. And padding and stiffening runs counter to the properties of knit fabric. Why wouldn’t you just use a centre shoulder panel cut straight, but the length of the curved pieces?
So, readers, have I got this completely wrong? How is it supposed to look? The example in the book, which is also on the cover, isn’t terrifically inspiring. It looks lumpy and bumpy in a warty toad sort of way. That might just be the colour, more grey. I suspect its the draft though. The overall shape is good, its just the way the fabric falls, wrecking the curves.
Here’s the pattern, a very simple draft.
The book example is for a little midriff revealing top, to pull on after your day on a California beach sipping calorie deficient green smoothies and turning an attractive nutmeg shade.
I’m thinking short bolero, edge to edge, worn over ankle length dress. Guess why.
Now its a Fabriholic confessions moment. Yesterday I got to accompany the man of the house to the Armurerie, which just happens to be a couple of doors from a fabric shop I don’t usually go in except to buy a machine needle or something, because their fabrics are out of my price range. Its a little dull standing around half listening to talk about loads, barrel cleaning and sight setting, so I thought it would do no harm to browse Tissus Duret instead.
Turns out they were having a sale!
A lovely soft medium stretch cotton knit in a blobby design in mainly bright blues, with notes of green and tan,
A slubby woven fabric with an interesting texture, and serious print in shades of tan and red, blouse weight,
A cotton spandex dramatic blues and blacks print on white, dress weight
Could not be resisted.