I’m continuing doggedly with my drafting review of “Pattern Magic Stretch Fabrics”. Today, I looked at ‘Straight Lines and Curves A, the instructions on page 93 of this volume by Tomoko Nakamichi.
I unintentionally became expert in the technique used in this pattern whilst hamfisting many a knitwear seam, accidentally stretching one side against the other as it went through the machine and making waves. Someone must have been looking over my shoulder as I got going with the stitch ripper, and passed this design innovation around. (No, I haven’t shelled out for a walking foot, and don’t have differential feed by the way.)
The waves in SL&C A are built into the pattern. I’m not sure why they’re married to a much shorter length of fabric. From the front view, with everything pulled carefully into place for the shot, the effect is really pretty.
If you stiffened or padded the fabric, you could probably get the curves to stay put, but the shorter piece on the shoulder length would always be pulling against the wave structure I think. And padding and stiffening runs counter to the properties of knit fabric. Why wouldn’t you just use a centre shoulder panel cut straight, but the length of the curved pieces?
So, readers, have I got this completely wrong? How is it supposed to look? The example in the book, which is also on the cover, isn’t terrifically inspiring. It looks lumpy and bumpy in a warty toad sort of way. That might just be the colour, more grey. I suspect its the draft though. The overall shape is good, its just the way the fabric falls, wrecking the curves.
Here’s the pattern, a very simple draft.