More Pattern Magic

This came winging my way from the Book Depository today. Lucky me.

Its the first PM I have in English, so that’s double the excitement, no slogging over the text with my Japanese sewing terms crib. Of course, as the title makes clear, this one is full of designs for stretch fabrics, twenty seven of them, and like the other Pattern Magic books, takes drafting off into unusual directions.

Here are some samples of the easier to wear creations. Called Apple Peel, this one is for a pair of pants, or leggins, with the inseam just like you’d expect, and the side seams looking kind of ruched. Melissa of Fehr Trade made these in June, and blogged about them. Definitely doable for yoga, or jogging wear. Sorry about my fuzzy scan, I didn’t want to flatten the book spine.

See the bunched look, achieved by slashing and spreading the pattern? Must try these when I light on some suitable jersey. Next, a top, designed with two similarly shaped pieces in different scales. I’d need to do my own version or adaptation of this one, its an inspiration piece.

This one is an instant winner.Its being worked in half scale here of course. With the different effect of fabric in full scale, I see the pull through piece looking a little more fluid. This may be the first one I make, it could be a really nice top.

The patterns are drafted using a block or sloper which is of Japanese Medium size , bust 83cm,waist 64cm, hips 91cms, back length 38cm; that’s about 32.5inches, 25inches, 36 inches, 15 inches, and you get three sizes of blocks full and half size, in the back of the book.  These are blocks without bust darts, for stretch fabrics. As well as being smaller than the ‘average’ usually used in the West, I notice that the difference between the bust and hip measurement is greater. The nearest size to the Medium in the blocks I usually work from would be a 10,- 84,64,89,39.5.

Working with jersey does give more flexibility in sizing, but for the tee shirts I just drafted, I used a jersey block with a bust dart. I prefer this, at least for cup sizes C and above. You can simply scale up the patterns in the book, if you prefer to work them exactly as they are. Things like facings are not included, so you would need some basic knowledge to make them. Off to play with my half scale dress form now.





About jay

I design and draft patterns
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