T shirt variation

A tee shirt drafted to be shaped. The fabric, a rather nice quality cotton jersey, in black and white fine stripes,  is from Myrtille who were having a sale. It was hard to photo without moiré, but looks pretty good in the flesh. There are two pattern pieces, which fit side by side on the width, using only 70cms length. It was a pretty cheap make at around a couple of euros.

The sleeves are drafted on a kimono cut, with the bust dart moved into a fake yoke seam. I wanted a tee which kept the bust dart, so as to get a better fit without dragging. Small pleats are made on the sleeve section, where it joins the fake yoke, front and back.

There’s a small cowl neck in the front. The original idea was to bind the sleeve edges and the neck edge, but I liked it simply hemmed. It has waist darts. I kept them quite narrow, to give it a waist skimming rather than bulge revealing fit. The side seams are also shaped.

It was all constructed on my mechanical Bernina Sport 801. I used a ball point needle with a stretch stitch on the seams.

Construction Steps

Stay stitch the back neck.

Pin the pleats in the sleeve sections front and back. You can see where the dart end will form in this picture, and the part curling back is the top of the fake yoke, that gets seamed to the sleeve part.

Stitch the back fake yoke seams, and press turnings up towards the top.

Stitch the front fake yoke seams, clipping into the corner where the dart part forms a sharp angle with the curved seam. Press the turnings up.

Stitch the waist darts front and back.

Stitch the side seams, clipping into the underarm curve.

Stitch the shoulder seams.

Turn a narrow hem and stitch with a double needle (fake coverstitch). I used a Bohin twin jersey needle 4.0mm.

Turn a narrow hem on the sleeve edges and stitch with a double needle.

Turn a narrow hem on the neck edge and stitch with a double needle.

Piece of cake really. Pity I’m dieting. Thanks Dr Dukan, I do miss cake. Oatmeal galettes sweetened with hermesetas and cinnamon don’t quite hit the spot.


Pink tab is pointing to the section which is pleated.

Green tab points to the dart end of the fake yoke seam.

How the sleeve section and cowl look from the side. Its cooler than a normal tee shirt sleeve, without the bare shoulder look. Face on, they’re like the 3rd picture. And in the garden with moiré.

The darts have been taken in one cm each since this shot, it was a bit too ‘easy’.



About jay

I design and draft patterns
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One Response to T shirt variation

  1. Pingback: Black Half Sleeve Cotton Top « Fashion Dreams

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