Have you noticed how quickly stuff migrates from the luxury camp to the necessity camp ?The legendary, record breaking Eileen Sheridan recalling sportswear as it once was said
“We used to ride in our baggy shorts, not padded of course, and a sweater with a pocket on the front where we kept our food. It opened like a sail as we cycled! I wore chamois leather shorts when I was racing, but that’s as smart as it got! There were no showers or anything. We used to finish, find out our time and ride home!”
Compare that to what even the weediest of us thinks we need to strut our stuff down the gym now .
Last night’s GB Sewing Bee was 50s themed. Contestants were given electric Singer Featherweights to work on and some struggled with the lack of features. How quaint it seems now that my sister and I learnt to sew on a hand crank Singer. We did get a new needle when sis sewed through her finger. That was the entire gizmo expenditure.
I wonder what its like learning to sew in today’s gadget rich environment. Do you think its empowering, or does it lead to expecting that its all going to be easy?
There’s been much criticism of independent pattern makers lately. Some of it might be justified. This post claims to have found plagiarism. It’s not the first time its been suggested that some newer pattern makers are drawing round old patterns. If true, its not exactly cricket is it? Calling out commercial copying is a fair cop.
Some criticism though, is along the lines of ‘this pattern was a bad fit on the half dozen bloggers who made it’ . That may not be a fair complaint. Have we started to expect fitting to be plain sailing because so much else is relatively easy? I spent this week on a couple of common fit issues.
First, fabric related fit problems.
Have you noticed how no matter how carefully you measure and compare, fabric can throw the fit of a pattern right off? Knits are the worst offenders – even when two fabrics have apparently have the same stretch they can behave differently.
Batting off the ease I used in last week’s sportswear top, (size14, zero ease) I made a simple tee shirt (size12, 4cms ease) in a knitted noil of about the same stretch. They should have had a similar fit if there were any measurement logic in the game. Verdict -indifferent fit, baggy in places and at the same time having drag lines to the bust point and the dreaded front hem raise.
So then I made another (12, zero ease, but bust darts). Verdict – good fit. Its not all in the measurements. The noil jersey and the cotton jersey I used last week have similar stretch, but fit differently.
basic silk noil tee
2nd silk noil tee
Second, shooting in the dark fit
This closely echoes the pattern maker’s dilemma. Fit a theoretical model (or in this case far distant actual person) with non standard measurements. I got these steps done this week.
Pad out size 12 dressform to approximate extra 2 inches of front bodice measurement -a different cup size.
Drape pattern for garment support structure and transfer it to paper.
Make up test support pattern, pin out alterations.
Tentatively drape a piece of fabric over it to see if the finished lines will marry up with the support structure.
But will it fit?