I made an early New Year rez to make some of the dress patterns which caught my eye once, only to languish in stash. I decided to work backwards from the most recently acquired, so enter December’s Burda, cover photo dress .
Undeterred by the odd triangle on top of the skirt in the layout and another odd triangle on the bodice it joins, forming a fold of cloth which starts of all the places where you would tend to avoid adding fabric, at the underarm point, I thought 112 looked pretty good in the magazine photo and decided to bash on with it full of hope. 5 to 6 on the bodice in the diagram is stitched to 5 to 6 of the skirt, then the 5s are folded back to the underarm and the side seam is sewn. There’s a lot going on at the underarm.
Its a featured pattern in December’s Burda. You get diagrams. All goes swimmingly until you get to this bit.
I’m guessing the artwork gal downed tools here, and flatly refused to even try to represent whatever you are supposed to be doing with the folded under raw edges of the tab, the bunched up fabric an inch from the gathered end of the tab you’re told to stitch to the ‘placement line’ with ‘a few invisible stitches’, or where the funny pointy bit which by now has the bunchy tab end stuffed in it is supposed to end up when its worn.
I don’t think I sewed this as Burda did for the model. I can’t figure out why the tab is secured with a few hand stitches on the outside and turns under as a gathered up scrunch into some dark recess of the dress’s folds. This has the vibes of a good fashion sketch which didn’t translate into a workable pattern, and got cobbled up for the photo shot. Is this unduly cynical?
When I tried it per instructions, it looked a mess and added bulk to the waistline. The tab didn’t hold the bodice drapes flat and didn’t really control the extra fabric of the skirt very well either. True, the raw edges pressed under didn’t spring out on the test run, but would they be so obliging in a full day’s wear?
I ripped that out and next stitched folds into the tab ends instead of gathering it, opened the seam the end is stuffed into a bit more so it would lie flatter, stitched the placement line bit by machine from underneath the fold and slip stitched the raw tab edges under.
Then, to attempt to detract from the still quite chunky padded waistline, I lowered the neckline and drafted and piped a collar. Yes, thanks for asking, piping the collar was a PITA. I put a zip in the side instead of the back.
I think the dress is now ok in a Parent’s Evening, or cream tea with Auntie way. I may get to like it better. It doesn’t resemble the photo in the magazine.
What I’d do differently next time, is redraft it. The tab wrapped around vertical folds is a nice idea. I’d like to have a stab at getting a pattern for this which didn’t have folds of fabric from the underarm, and gave a tighter look to the bodice. But maybe on someone else this pattern will work just fine, perhaps in a different fabric. I’m hoping a fellow stitcher will try it, and show me where I went wrong.